Two days ago I sent my hardest route so far. Les Rois du pétrole 8b+.
Since first day when we came here at Pic St Loup, I saw this perfect line. First few days I was too intimidated to try it, but curiosity won, and I was in love.
The route starts on very steep part of the wall, with powerful moves on blobs, continues trough physical tufa climbing, the last crux is little bit more delicate, with in-cut crimps, and for last you continue on fat tufa until anchor.
Honestly, I didn't expect to progress so fast, since at first try I had impression that moves are so physical that I will never be able to link it up. But already on the 3 day, and my 3 real try, I had a good run, real big fight and ended up falling in last crux. Thanks to good motivating cheers from Lowie and the friendly locals. Two days later I sent it, just after warm up. It felt surreal to clip the anchor, because I felt fresh.
Just after I realized what happened rush of pump and adrenaline got to me :).
Lowie is working on his nice project and getting closer to do it.
It is very hot here, and hiking every day 30 minutes in sun and then jumaring up for another 20 min is getting us really fit.
The conditions are far from good, but the place is so amazing that we will stay here until competition in Chamonix.
Venga!